Tag Archives | Israel

Historical Tourism in Israel

religious-tourism-001.jpgHoly Land tour group poses for the Dome of the Rock.

religious-tourism-002.jpgWoman at the Wailing Wall

religious-tourism-003.jpgPhotographing inside the Church of the Holy Sepulchre


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mixing thoughts on demonstrations


Demonstration is a fitting name. They call them peace walks or non-violent protests, but we run from the teargas, and the youth most often come with slingshots. These “demonstrations,” held all over the West Bank, protest the past and present construction of the apartheid wall between Israel and the West Bank. Internationals, Palestinians, and even Israeli’s march together with flags chants and provocations for soldiers of the Israeli Defense Force. ”The goal in Beit-jala is to get to the bulldozers without getting arrested,” I was told most recently.


Palestinians suffer great injustices; their land, their families, their ways of life are trespassed by Israeli occupation on a daily basis. Jewish settlements and housing demolitions grow hand in hand as more and more land is colonized by the Israelis. Arabs suffer violence, oppression, and arrest for peaceful and aggressive resistance alike. And all of this, you can find at a demonstration. Their cause and effect is symbolic. Both sides provoking an assumed response.


When people see my equipment, I’m herded towards the demonstrations, they’re unavoidable. Press is everywhere, Foreigners are everywhere. Their cameras keep the people safe, while secretly hoping for a soldier to step out of line and respond in violence. As I see it, any still image of violence, acts as a symbol, an ambassador of all the violence and oppression suffered by the Palestinians under Israeli control. But in the setting of the demonstration, those acts feel provoked. As an Israeli soldier, what else can you do in the face of a shouting mob, hurling rocks, threatening to interfere with construction, or tear down the walls.


I have mixing emotions about demonstrations, but my strongest and most consistent reaction is the one I feel when the adults stand by and watch as the youth hurl stones at the soldiers and the settlements. You can’t call something non-violent if people are hurling stones. I understand their frustration, their anxiety, their desperation, it’s all justified in my opinion. But when you respond in even the smallest forms of violence, you affirm any perspective of the Palestinian people that sees them as a danger and threat to the Israeli population.

Young_demonstrations-005.jpgphotos taken during demonstrations in Beit Jala and Beit Omar

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Demonstration in Ni’lin

I’m stepping into two kinds of new territory. The first is this land, Palestine; and the second is politics. For excuses I won’t explain, I’m not political, or I haven’t been, and as a result have been mostly uniformed and therefore un-opinioned on the subject of the Palestine/Israel conflict. In Journalism we call that being objective.

Yesterday I went to Ni’Lin for a demonstration. As I was told, a demonstration, a peaceful, non-violent display of Palestine’s opposition to Israeli occupation. The history is on wikipedia. But in short, in 1948 this land was 15,000 acres, and now it is 4,000 acres, due to the construction of the wall 2 miles east of the green line in 2008, and the walls that surround Nili and Na’ale, Israeli settlements constructed in ’81 and 88. These demonstrations have been held since the beginning of the construction of the wall, every friday.

So I arrive and am led to a field with a man under an olive tree, shouting over a megaphone in Arabic. His words, I’m sure, speaks for Palestinian freedom from Israeli occupation.


He speaks, they pray, and I follow as we step over rocks, cacti, and expended teargas grenades onto a dirt path that leadI s to the wall of the West Bank. They march, about 40 in number, chanting, waving flags—it’s a ritual dance at this point.  Boys, men, angry youth, waving their flags, putting on uniforms of headscarves and gas-masks.




At the wall, Palestinians wave flags, shout, throw rocks over the wall and at a small tower jammed with IDF soldiers. They climb ladders, peer over the edge, and place palestinian flags on top of the wall. The skies streak with teargas grenades from the IDF, and the group scatters into clumps. 


The dance goes on, more rocks, more shouting, more gas. It comes in waves, 4-7 grenades at a time infecting the area, burning the fields.  We gather, and then flee, gather and flee. It stings their eyes and chokes their lungs. There is no official surrender, but as the hours pass, the numbers dwindle, and we return to the city. I follow a man, who seems in charge. 

I know his face from a youtube interview I saw just the night before. I find a peace team from Michigan and he takes us to a room, long, and tiled with pictures of protests, wounded, martyrs. He shows us video, from two years before, when the wall was being built through his field, over his olive trees. He, Mohamed, takes us through the video, translating the parts where he’s begging the soldiers to stop, to have peace.  He’s carrying his son, less than 2-years old, and the soldiers are yelling at him to move. They make a move, he collapses, his child cries.


I talked to a man today, a recent political prisoner of Israel who works with the Stop the Wall Campaign. I told him I wish they didn’t throw rocks.  He said they haven’t always. They’ve tried many kinds of peaceful resistance, but after so long, you don’t know what else to do. The government isn’t organized enough to fight back, they have no outlet. As I see it, In the small town of Ni’lin, their best chance at opposition is this wall of pictures. There’s a reason I was escorted to that field of olive trees without question, there’s a reason I was in this room. Palestinians and Americans, adults and children are injured and killed in these demonstrations, and each time, a photograph runs around the world under headlines. And they hope that people will respond to the image of injustice.

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Palestinian Cherries, Turkish Flags

rummalah-001.jpgCherries with a side of Turkish Flag. Ramallah, West Bank.

Co-existence in Ramallah.

rummalah-003.jpgA boy collects trash and sells gum at the Ramallah Jerusalem Checkpoint.

rummalah-004.jpgTrash Art

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Day 10 in Jerusalem

old-city-001.jpgYou find these mannequins in markets all over town, sporting the latest fashion in hijabs. I’ve wanted this shot
ever since my last visit here 2 years ago, and I think I might have gotten it this time.

old-city-002.jpgTaking cues from American Relics, my photo essay on American History as a spectacle, I’ve been photographing a lot of tourism scenes in Jerusalem, from the same perspective and style. I only spent about 5 minutes with the scene, and this is as close as I came to getting the shot. It’s almost there, but not quite. Hopefully I’ll have time to revisit the scene and get the foreground background interaction I’m looking for.


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